Folbot

hull repair/ replacement

A place to discuss maintenance procedures, repair methods and upgrades for all Folbot models.

hull repair/ replacement

Postby andrewmknepp » Mon Dec 13, 2004 3:09 pm

need info. my folbot which is well over 30 years old has a lot of major rips and holes in the hull. it got some major scrapes from river rocks, and then the weather worked on in and dry rot set in. i need to replace the material on the entire hull. the frame and top are good, and i would hate to have to retire the boat. the folbot company rep tells me the canvas material is no longer available from them, and they suggested i use this forum to get ideas as to where to find suitable material, or other ideas for repair of this boat. any one have suggestions? thanks. ****andrew.
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Skin material

Postby PeteS » Mon Dec 13, 2004 8:22 pm

Andrew, check out the following web site: http://yostwerks.com/SkinMenu.html
This guy makes the whole boat and has some great ideas for materials and procedures for building folding kayaks.
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repairing old folbots

Postby Sailboy » Tue Dec 14, 2004 10:19 am

The older folbots had a vinyl skin material. Actually a weave-reinforced vinyl material that is still available - a google search should yield you results. This method requires that a "dart" be cut in the material to allow it to curve to the frame. The dart was located at the aft seating position in the SuperTSK.

If I were doing a recovering now (I built my TSK in the '80's) I would use a polyester fabric and a urethane paint method. GACO Inc. makes a variety of pliable paint materials. I would rough out the hull dimensions, coat the inside, let it dry and then drape and fit the material. Upon disassembly, you will notice that the hull is stretched and tacked to the gunwales. Cutting the fabric "on the bias" allows for stretching and shaping to irregular surfaces. The final step would the layering on of several coats of liquid urethane for a flexible hull.

Alternatively, I have an old friend with a SOF (Skin on Frame) canoe that recovers his boat every year. He stretches polyester over the hull and paints it with several coats of latex house paint. It looks and works great. Very light also.
Good luck!
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Postby Dale53 » Tue Dec 14, 2004 11:54 am

I had a 1966 Super Double Folder and built a Racer (single). Both of them had a hull made from doubled "Naugahide". The hulls were laminated, cloth to cloth and glued together before they were fitted to the boat. This is heavy but makes an extremely tough and durable hull. I also built a "Junior" single for my sons and daughter. It has a single thickness hull of the same material that I sealed on the cloth side (cloth side, of course, went inside). I still have my kids Junior and it is in near perfect shape (built around '68-'70).

FWIW
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More skin repair questions

Postby coaster » Sat Feb 19, 2005 12:59 pm

Hi all, I'm new to this thread. What a great find. I built a super in 1987. The skin is the woven 2000 denier polyester coated PVC. I had to store the boat outside during a move and the hot sun (and age) did a number on the seams. They basicly opened up and the inside strips fell off. I read the above comments, but need some advice. Should I remove the skin from the hull to do the repairs? Should I sew the seams together and then re-apply the strips (after cleaning)? My wife and I really love this boat. I hope someone out there can help. Thanks! 8)
" I rather be floating"
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Postby cliffy » Sun Feb 20, 2005 10:23 am

It might not be easier to remove the skin to do the repairs. . but likely the repairs will be better quality not having to work at odd angles and all..

Also.. removing the skin will make it easier to get to wood parts that may beshowing wear also.....
I think I would take it off..... more work, but I think you'll be happier in the long run....
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Postby coaster » Thu Feb 24, 2005 2:01 pm

Thanks Cliffy,

I might try to make the repairs without the removal first. The boat has been stored most of its life in dooors, so the wood still looks good. Thanks for the advice.
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weight of the hull strip reinforcements

Postby newfolboter » Fri Feb 25, 2005 3:58 am

i was going to order a roll of the hull strip reinforcements from folbot today, but they list the roll shipping weight as 8 lbs. is this correct? i hesitate to add this amount of weight to the boat as i have to pack it on my back from time to time.

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Re: weight of the hull strip reinforcements

Postby Alex M » Fri Feb 25, 2005 6:06 am

newfolboter wrote:i was going to order a roll of the hull strip reinforcements from folbot today, but they list the roll shipping weight as 8 lbs. is this correct? i hesitate to add this amount of weight to the boat as i have to pack it on my back from time to time.

newfolboter


"Shipping weight" is always higher than the weight of what is inside.
This roll covers 10% or less of GII skin; plus self-adhesive; shouldn't be more than 5 lbs.
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hull replacement

Postby canvasguy » Mon Mar 07, 2005 7:19 pm

Andrew

I have 2 17 foot supers, a folding model about 30 years old that is still in decent shape and a rigid that I picked up last year that needs a new hull. I do custom canvas and upholstery for a living here in Michigan, and am fairly familiar with all the materials ( fabrics) available. I do not know of a direct replacement for what folbot used on their hulls, that material seems to be a heavy weight pure vinyl. However their are a few modern fabrics that I think will work well. I was planning to use 35 oz Coverlight H Hypalon on mine, at least for the hull . The manufacturer lists the following properties water resistant, seams gluable to make them air/water tight, high abrasion resistance, puncture and tear resistant, UV resistant, Unfortunately this only comes in black and it is pricey, over $30.00 /yd (60 inches wide) wholesale, probably more retail. However it is ideal for glueing, in fact it can be used to make over the road truck tarps using only glue for the seams. It is available in a 17 oz, probably suitable for the deck, for about$20 yd, and that comes in yellow, green red, and white.

there are some other fabrics which may be suitable as well, including shelterite 22 oz , weblon structurall and herculite 18 ozat around $10/yd,

Until I do my boat these are just guesses, I have never covered a fabric hull before, but have used the Weblon and Herculite before for other applications, they are tough and come in colors. I will be glad to share my impression of the hypalon when I do my own, but knowing my workload it may be mid to late summer before I have time to work on anything of my own.

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Super Skin

Postby PeteS » Mon Mar 07, 2005 8:53 pm

Hey canvasguy, how about covering the whole Super with the clear vinyl that you use for boat top windows?? It wouldn't be too tough but man o man would it be cool! A CLEAR SUPER... :D

Clearly a great idea.. 8)
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clear hull

Postby canvasguy » Sun Mar 13, 2005 6:55 pm

Pete You know, if I sanded the frame real nice, stained and varnished it, then covered it in clear vinyl, that would look cool. Make a great display.

Unfortunately the first time I beached the bow it would look terrible. I plan to use both of these, but if I were to see a smaller boat , I might just do that and hang it from the ceiling of the shop. It actually might work OK if you kept it out of the sun ( The UV eats that stuff up, even the resistant varieties) On the bright side, clear vinyl is relatively cheap, about $7.00 / yd for 30 guage which is probably as heavy as you would want to carry.

If I ever do it I'll post a pic.

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Postby gobe » Sun Mar 13, 2005 7:32 pm

Every time I've built or rebuilt a Super, I hated to cover it. The wood looked so pretty after the varnishing was comptete that it was a shame to have to cover it. :(
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hull repair/replacement

Postby Romi » Tue Aug 02, 2005 10:24 am

I've been reading some of the postings about hull replacement. I have an old (probably 60's, early 70's) two seater wood rib model folbot with what I believe is a naugahyde skin. It does not fold, and I think my father bought it second hand in the 70's with a sail kit. I'm totally unfamiliar with the alternative skin materials you all have been talking about here. I know that the naugahyde skin was great for many years, and I'm leaning toward replacing it with another one if I can find the material. I'm wondering if anyone has actually found and used naugahyde to replace the skin, and whether anyone knows of a printed guide to lead me through the steps of refurbishing my older model.

Thanks!
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Postby cliffy » Tue Aug 02, 2005 10:29 am

Romi..
Try this site.... it's quite good.....
http://yostwerks.com/MainMenu.html
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